New Discovery on Vitamin C -

Other than fighting reactive oxygen species, being cofactors to enzymatic reactions and reducing agents, the latest 2025 discovery on Vitamin C also shows that it can sustain the activity of “TET enzymes,” which demethylates DNA and reactivate genes that help regain skin thickness and strength, as our skin thins and become more fragile with age. There’s still a long way to go to conduct double blinded and placebo testings, more test subjects and longer term observations for effects and side-effects, but it is an interesting study as Vitamin C has not been widely known to part-take in activities that affect gene expression.

Vitamin C and Its Derivatives - 

Just like retinoic acid with all its precursors, Vitamin C also has a few derivatives with different properties to enhance penetration, formula stability, and overall Vitamin C product effects. 

L-ascorbic Acid shall be the final destination which all derivatives get converted into as it is the only bioactive form being used by humans, yet it is a highly unstable ingredient that is sensitive to light, heat, and air, making it a challenge to formulate. For the same reason, packaging of Vitamin C products should also be carefully selected to avoid these factors of contamination. Thankfully, molecular modifications have allowed us to render this ingredient to be better preserved and stabilized in formulas, as well as enhance its penetration into skin to optimize all its wonderful benefits. 

Common derivatives include: 

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate MAP or Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate SAP - by adding a phosphate group to the structure the ascorbic acid gets protected and less likely to degrade. They also require enzymes to be converted into L-ascorbic Acid in the body so the effect is more gradual and thus more gentle.

Ascorbyl Glucoside - bonded Ascorbic acid with glucose to protect it from being easily degraded, and induces a timed conversion for the release of L-ascorbic acid.

Glycerol Ascorbate - glycerin attached to ascorbic acid, with better penetration and hydrating properties. 

Tetra Hexcyl Decyl (THD) Ascorbate - rendered oil soluble during the process of attaching the THD chain fatty acid group; comparatively more gentle, stable, and penetrates deeper into skin. 

So if you see any of these ingredients in the ingredient list of your Vitamin C product, they will all theoretically convert into L-ascorbic Acid when they reach your skin.