The Dermis
Much like a mattress, the dermis contains collagen and elastin acting like springs and ECM like stuffing. Starting from your mid-20s, we begin losing around 1% of collagen per year, and starting from the age of 50, the dermis will start to thin as it loses its volume. So as collagen is reduced and elastin stop renewing themselves in early adulthood, wrinkles, lines and sagging occur.
What you need: AHAs, Retinol, Ascorbic Acid, Peptides, Bakuchiol, Resveratrol
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The Extracellular Matrix (ECM) is the structure that surrounds cells and responsible for structural support, stability, cell communication and repair. It’s a rich broth of proteins, glycoproteins and polysaccharides (such as Hyaluronic Acid) and its turnover slows down with age. Thus, the skin becomes less firm and supple as we age.
What you need: ingredients for anti-glycation and ECM turnover
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Additionally, nutrients in the skin are supplied by cutaneous blood vessels, from the dermis to the epidermis. As we age, these microvessels decrease in number, and together with the flattening and thinning of the dermo-epidermal junction, less nutrient, oxygen, and signaling molecules get delivered to the epidermis.
What you need: ingredients or devices that boost microcirculation
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Other Factors - Senescent Cells:
Some cells are designed to keep dividing (keratinocytes), and others by design do not (nerve cells). Senescent cells are those that have lost the ability to divide and permanently remain in cellular arrest. Reasons for their loss of such ability is for a protective reason: DNA damage, oxidative damage, shortening of telomere…etc. However, unlike - again - keratinocytes that move upward through epidermal renewal and get sloughed off, they remain. As they accumulate in large quantities, they secrete pro-inflammatory cytokines and begin to affect neighboring cells and cause tissue inflammation as well as a phenomenon known as inflammaging.
What you need: Hyaluronic Acid, Peptides, Vitamin B3, Resveratrol
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Glycation:
In a process known as glycation, sugars we consume in our diet enter the bloodstream after digestion and get distributed to the skin. When they are present in excess, they react with free amino acid groups on proteins such as collagen and elastin, forming Advance Glycation End Products in which when accumulated in high amounts, they trigger inflammation, oxidative stress, and stiffens theskin fibers leading to loss of elasticity, sagging, and wrinkles.
What you need: ingredients for anti-glycation
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