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Chemist’s Tips on A Stronger Skin Barrier How to protect the skin barrier?

Genetics, age, UV exposure, environmental stress, harsh cleansers, heavily fragranced products, lifestyle can all contribute to weakened barrier function and are associated with higher TEWL, and skincare products are just part of the bigger picture.

Here are some tips to protecting the Skin Barrier: 

Gentle cleansing, less fragranced products - avoid stripping surfactants such as SLS and SLES and products with denatured alcohol and fragrances. Alcohol is a common diluent for fragrances, and some fragrances - including those that are natural - trigger pro-inflammatory cytokines that cause skin irritation. 

Proper exfoliation - products that are too acidic can disrupt our barrier protection, as mentioned before the acid mantle is at a slight acidic pH around 4.5-5.5, and anything too acidic or basic can disrupt this balance, impairing our microbiome health leading to dryness, irritation, and acne inflammation. Excessive exfoliation also causes thinning of the skin as surface layer is sloughed off along with lipids, thus our skin becomes less intact and more susceptible to sensitizing agents, as well as increased water loss leading to dryness. Avoid excessive use of exfoliating products that are pH 4 or below.

Sun protection - remember how I mentioned previously that high temperatures cause our lipid layer to be more fluid and less intact? It is a direct result of UVB radiation. UV reduces the cohesion of lipids and corneocytes, as well as activates reactive oxygen species that cause lipid peroxidation. Use products with Vitamin C, Ferulic Acid, Vitamin E - especially a synergy of the 3 - to combat ROS. 

Microcurrent facials - microcurrent facials utilize low-voltage electrical stimulation to mimic the body’s natural currents. The process facilitates the generation of cellular energy (ATP) production in the skin fueling skin repair and synthesis of structural proteins. It also suppresses signaling pathways of inflammation, thereby helping to reduce signs of irritation and redness. 

Healthy diet - rich in sphingolipids such as soy, wheat, rice, eggs, vegetable oils, seeds and nuts can support the body’s synthesis of fatty acids and ceramides. Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids also function as signaling molecules to regulate inflammatory responses and trigger wound healing actions.  

Healthy lifestyle - numerous studies have shown that insufficient sleep, stress and smoking all play a role in impairing lipid barrier, and replenishment of essential fatty acids from our diet is also critical in maintaining the health of our lipid barrier. 

Therefore, keeping our skin well hydrated and and lipid barrier healthy is more than just skincare, but a wholesome approach to overall wellness! 

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Look for skincare products with ceramides

Ceramides NP, NS, EOS are made endogenously and are available as ingredients in skincare products. They are mainly plant-derived such as from wheat, soybeans, corn and rice, and there are also synthetic ceramides that offer higher product consistency and stability. 

Ceramide AP (Amino Propionyl Phytosphingosine) is a semi-synthetic ingredient that differs structurally and functionally from natural ceramide and their subclasses such as NP, NS, EOS which are made in the human skin by keratinocytes. Their modified structure helps to enhance skin hydration, makes them less susceptible to oxidation, and they penetrate deeper into the skin while offering the product a more stable shelf life. 

These ceramides are often formulated together in topical skincare as they work synergistically to keep the lipid barrier intact by providing the densest lipid packing, producing a biomimetic matrix that fortifies our barrier protection.