How ceramides are produced in the skin
Keratinocytes are cells that become cornified as corneocytes as they mature and secrete intracellular natural moisturizing factors, and are also responsible for making ceramides in the skin. Ceramides are made in the smooth ER) then transported to the Golgi Apparatus then exocytosed into the extracellular space of the stratum corneum.
Main types of ceramides in the skin
Ceramide NP (non-hydroxy fatty acid, phytosphingosine): forms tight and ordered lamellar structures and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and promotes intact barrier; has low permeability to water and paramount to healthy skin.
Ceramides NS (non-hydroxy fatty acid, sphingosine): not as effective as Ceramides NP in reducing TEWL; doubles the amount of water permeability than NP; when predominating over NP in the skin the barrier becomes less intact but NS is still produced in the skin.
Acylceramides EOS: mainly responsible for the securing of corneocytes to the extracellular lipids for being the precursor of the cornified lipid envelope (CLE). If their levels are reduced, the barrier becomes less intact and especially observed in those with atopic dermatitis.
Ingredients that synergize with ceramides
|
Category |
Ingredient |
Function |
|
Humectants |
Hyaluronic Acid |
Powerfully hydrophilic and draws a large amount of moisture to the skin |
|
Vitamin B5 |
Skin’s natural moisturizing factor with soothing properties |
|
|
Vitamin B3 |
Water soluble and structure allows it to react and bind with moisture for skin hydration |
|
|
Emollients |
Squalane |
Mimics the skin’s natural oils (sebum) and enhances the lipid barrier’s content |
|
Fatty Acids |
Works synergistically with ceramides to enhance barrier strength, boost moisture retention, and repair |
|
|
Cholesterol |
Structural component of lipid barrier to seal in hydration and restore lipids |
|
|
Skin Repairing Agents |
Beta Glucan |
Reduces redness and improves hydration, as well as confers anti-inflammatory effects |
|
Vitamin B3 |
Promotes production of natural ceramides and reinforces the skin’s barrier protection |